Today we left the Lisu village, after a small ceremony of thanking our host families and goodbyes. We took the vans back to Chiang Mai and most of us slept the whole way back. Once we were back at Payap University, we all rushed to the showers, since we had gone 4 days without them living in the hills. After doing some laundry, and repacking to leave back to Bangkok the next day, we all met up for a reflection on our time in the Lisu village. We overcame the language barrier and we able to learn so much about this culture in such a short time. It was such a different experience from the rest of the things we had done in Thailand, but a very exciting one!
In the evening, we headed back to the Can Do Bar (for the third time..) and we we able to speak with a few women who worked there, along with a few members from Empower. Empower is an organization which supports women in the sex trade, and works for equal rights, education, and safe, fair working conditions. It was founded in 1984 a bit by accident; it started as a group of sex workers, meeting together to learn english in the alley ways. The group continued to grow and Empower was started. There are now 8 centers around Thailand that have education and health programs, and help sex workers become enrolled in the Thai social security system. The education that is taught is focused on language, GED equivalency, and Thai history, along with safe sex. At the Can Do Bar, there was a computer lab, an exercise room, and multiple classrooms on the upper levels for the workers. There weren't any actual rooms where women can take clients, however.
There is a lot false and exaggerated information out about sex workers and the sex trade in Thailand, and the conditions of the sex workers isn't as bad as we thought/had read about in our readings. In 1996, the laws in Thailand were changed, and police stopped extorting the workers, and HIV had killed off the bad slave owners and half of the slaves, supposably ending the slavery system. The women that we talked to didn't see themselves as victims or slaves. This was the life style that they chose, and even though their options are more limited than ours may be, they they seemed content with themselves. Each worker usually is able to support 5-8 other adults and have specific goals in how to use the money that they earn- such as buying a house. We also learned that the age range of sex workers is usually anywhere between 18 and 66 years old, and about 80% of them are already mothers when they begin working.
Overall, it was a very informative session with these women, and it was definitely a new experience for us all.
-Heidi and Ken
Monday, January 16, 2012
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Photos
Hi everybody,
I have posted a few photos from our trip- see my most recent post "Back in the States."
Thanks for reading,
Erika
I have posted a few photos from our trip- see my most recent post "Back in the States."
Thanks for reading,
Erika
Saturday, January 14, 2012
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Mountain Top Vistas, Coffee Bean Processing, Pig Slaughtering, and Lisu Harvest Celebration: All in One Day
Tuesday January 10th was a really exciting day. It was our last full day in the Lisu village and we had many activities planned. After getting 12 hours of sleep and being fed green vegetables, spicy pork, eggs, and rice (of course!) 8 of us headed to the coffee fields with some of the Lisu men. This was not an easy adventure! It started with a downhill climb at an 80 degree angle, which some of us found was most easily accomplished by sliding on our butts. We walked along narrow dirt paths viewing ranges of mountains that were covered in rolling fog. We saw many men and women working in these fields, which we found amazing because they have to cultivate their crops on the very steep slopes of the mountain. These mountains have been stripped of trees and are now planted with coffee plants, corn, tomatoes, chilles, banana and papaya trees. Our guide, Ajan Gai, said that one of the reasons that Bangkok has experienced floods at such a large level (other than at monsoon season) is that the mountains no longer retain the water because of the lack of trees. This hike was beautiful, challenging, and educational.
After another hearty meal of more pork, eggs, gourds, squash, and rice, we headed to Doi Chaang where we learned about how coffee beans are processed for companies all over the world. It is a fair trade business and they have based their processing methods on what they have seen after watching ferets eat and digest coffee cherries. We walked around the facilities and learned that coffee farmers bring their cherries to Doi Chaang in 20 killo bags and receive about 25 Baht per killo - currently 30 Baht is equal to one dollar. The cherries, or the outside of the coffee bean, are saved and used for fertilizer. Civet coffee is actually digested by ferets and then processed and one cup costs 300 Baht (about $10). The companies that buy from this small mountain processing plant include Coffee Cuppers.com, Operaeqa Fair Trade, Specialty Coffee Association of Europe and America. It is fair trade and green trade certified and is USDA and organic farming certified.
After touring the coffee facilities, we stopped to buy coffee and take a break to reflect. During the reflection, we talked about our experience in the Lisu village. We discussed similarities we saw between other places we had been in Thailand and the Lisu village, as well as similarities between our home lives in America and the village. We also talked about the relationships between women and men in the village. Although many of us were shocked by the rustic feel of the village, we all agreed that it was good that we were staying for three days so that we could really get a sense of the Lisu life, even if it was through western eyes. Some of us even expressed interest in a longer stay. A challenging question for us was how our experience would impact us when we return home. We all hope that this experience will open our eyes and make us more wary of everyday interactions. We concluded by contributing one thing we are greatful for in our lives.
All of this happened before three o'clock. Three o'clock was the hour we had all wondered about and dreaded. It was time to watch a pig slaughtering. Sacrificing a pig is a great honor for the Lisu and is done in great celebration during the harvest. Our gift to the Lisu families that hosted us was to buy a pig in order to contribute to the celebration. We had the option to watch the slaughtering. Most of us agreed that the worst part was the high pitched squeel of the pig before he was slaughtered. The actual process was fascinating and done with skill. The ears, tail, tongue, head, and feet were prepared for a sacrifice at the spirit house. The men in our group were allowed to enter the spirit house, while the women (because of their monthly uncleanliness) were required to observe from outside. We returned to the village center where an offering was also made of the first rice. The first rice was given to the dog because of the importance of this animal in Lisu culture.
We returned to our host homes and were outfitted in traditional Lisu clothing. We went back to the village center after changing for the celebration dinner. There we ate pork curry, pork soup, vegetarian pad thai, and rice. The evening ended with traditional dancing with the villagers accompanied by the Lisu bagpipe and Lisu guitar. It felt like a long day and late night because we weren't in bed until after 9 pm. This was a shock to us because most nights we had gone to bed between 7:30 and 8:30.
-Abby and Nancy
After another hearty meal of more pork, eggs, gourds, squash, and rice, we headed to Doi Chaang where we learned about how coffee beans are processed for companies all over the world. It is a fair trade business and they have based their processing methods on what they have seen after watching ferets eat and digest coffee cherries. We walked around the facilities and learned that coffee farmers bring their cherries to Doi Chaang in 20 killo bags and receive about 25 Baht per killo - currently 30 Baht is equal to one dollar. The cherries, or the outside of the coffee bean, are saved and used for fertilizer. Civet coffee is actually digested by ferets and then processed and one cup costs 300 Baht (about $10). The companies that buy from this small mountain processing plant include Coffee Cuppers.com, Operaeqa Fair Trade, Specialty Coffee Association of Europe and America. It is fair trade and green trade certified and is USDA and organic farming certified.
After touring the coffee facilities, we stopped to buy coffee and take a break to reflect. During the reflection, we talked about our experience in the Lisu village. We discussed similarities we saw between other places we had been in Thailand and the Lisu village, as well as similarities between our home lives in America and the village. We also talked about the relationships between women and men in the village. Although many of us were shocked by the rustic feel of the village, we all agreed that it was good that we were staying for three days so that we could really get a sense of the Lisu life, even if it was through western eyes. Some of us even expressed interest in a longer stay. A challenging question for us was how our experience would impact us when we return home. We all hope that this experience will open our eyes and make us more wary of everyday interactions. We concluded by contributing one thing we are greatful for in our lives.
All of this happened before three o'clock. Three o'clock was the hour we had all wondered about and dreaded. It was time to watch a pig slaughtering. Sacrificing a pig is a great honor for the Lisu and is done in great celebration during the harvest. Our gift to the Lisu families that hosted us was to buy a pig in order to contribute to the celebration. We had the option to watch the slaughtering. Most of us agreed that the worst part was the high pitched squeel of the pig before he was slaughtered. The actual process was fascinating and done with skill. The ears, tail, tongue, head, and feet were prepared for a sacrifice at the spirit house. The men in our group were allowed to enter the spirit house, while the women (because of their monthly uncleanliness) were required to observe from outside. We returned to the village center where an offering was also made of the first rice. The first rice was given to the dog because of the importance of this animal in Lisu culture.
We returned to our host homes and were outfitted in traditional Lisu clothing. We went back to the village center after changing for the celebration dinner. There we ate pork curry, pork soup, vegetarian pad thai, and rice. The evening ended with traditional dancing with the villagers accompanied by the Lisu bagpipe and Lisu guitar. It felt like a long day and late night because we weren't in bed until after 9 pm. This was a shock to us because most nights we had gone to bed between 7:30 and 8:30.
-Abby and Nancy
Saturday, January 7, 2012
International Women's Partnership for Peace
For todays activity we went to IWP (International Women's Partnership for Peace) found in Ban Mai, a village of 120 households. The co-founders of the program are Ginger(with a degree in Internation Studies and Womens Studies) and Ouyporn Khuankaew. Ginger lead our group for meditation, lecture, lunch, and group discussion. The organization works in the community as being a nondinominational positive aid for women. While many of the practices of the organization emulates many Buddhist habits and beliefs, it serves as a location in providing workshops with NGO's, Youth Empowerment, Nurses, and community leaders, transgender and LGBT community. This organization mostly focuses on workshops from 7 days to 6 weeks in length. The IWP uses a triangular framework made up of three key ideas. The organization began 10 years ago and practices Spiritual Practice which cultivates mindfulness, self-care, meditation while practicing yoga. The next idea is Feminist Theory and Practice encapsulating anti-oppression activism. The last leg of the trianglular framework is understanding ourselves and society which creates the idea of how society effects ourselves. All in all combining these ideals creates changes that are both structural and personal. This change happens when we find clarity and then take collective action. These workshops are female orinented and are commonly all female. Though they have welcomed men to the workshops, the workshopd or strongly encouraged in being prodominately female.
During our afternoon at IWP we also played a game which required the group to be frogs. Pillows were placed in a small circle, while a some people were placed on the inside of this circle and the rest on the outside. White papers were placed on the floor in the center and on the outside. Ginger was a croodile while the group were frogs. Ginger would ring a bell, signaling that she had woken up and would eat any frogs not found on a lilly pad. The group later disscussed the ideas of what this game could represent in the real world. At the end of our disscussion the group came to the main idea of talking in depth about privilege. The community has comtinued to welcome the IWP since it first began 10 years ago. While the IWP is not religious based it is difficult to receive funding from US organizations. However, with all the the aid they provide, the IWP is having little trouble staying afloat, it is clear that they are here to stay.
Our lunch today was prepared by some of the local community members.It included two fantastic vegetable dishes, a hot chili paste, a soupwith ingredients such as pineapple and potatoes, then finally fordessert we had the usual amazing fruits accompanied by Milo, achocolatey drink, and coffee. The fantastic food was not the onlyinteresting part of lunch at IWP. We sat on the ground, with lowtables and had the first ten minutes of our meal in silence. Gingerexplained this as a meditative way to emerge yourself in theexperience of eating. This intense eating experience really helps toallow for each person to really contemplate both the food they areeating and how their day is going so far. Of course, following theperiod of silence, we were aloud to speak again and all 17 of us choseto sit and discuss the amazing weather and all that we had learnedfrom the earlier lecture. After our meal had completed we did asGinger asked and all politely went inside to hand wash our dishes. Itwas an interesting process. First, any extra food left on a platewould be placed in the "duck" bucket, which would be fed to localducks around the community in order to not waste the compost. Secondwe soaped the dishes and scrubbed them down. In the three consecutivesinks following the soapy one, there were different levels of rinsing.Obviously the first rinse got rather soapy, but as the lineprogressed by the end the dishes were clean and soap free, awaiting atowel and then a leisurely rest on the drying rack. Overall, we canprobably agree that the lunch experience we had today was one of manyfrom the trip that we will not forget.
-Liz and Anna
During our afternoon at IWP we also played a game which required the group to be frogs. Pillows were placed in a small circle, while a some people were placed on the inside of this circle and the rest on the outside. White papers were placed on the floor in the center and on the outside. Ginger was a croodile while the group were frogs. Ginger would ring a bell, signaling that she had woken up and would eat any frogs not found on a lilly pad. The group later disscussed the ideas of what this game could represent in the real world. At the end of our disscussion the group came to the main idea of talking in depth about privilege. The community has comtinued to welcome the IWP since it first began 10 years ago. While the IWP is not religious based it is difficult to receive funding from US organizations. However, with all the the aid they provide, the IWP is having little trouble staying afloat, it is clear that they are here to stay.
Our lunch today was prepared by some of the local community members.It included two fantastic vegetable dishes, a hot chili paste, a soupwith ingredients such as pineapple and potatoes, then finally fordessert we had the usual amazing fruits accompanied by Milo, achocolatey drink, and coffee. The fantastic food was not the onlyinteresting part of lunch at IWP. We sat on the ground, with lowtables and had the first ten minutes of our meal in silence. Gingerexplained this as a meditative way to emerge yourself in theexperience of eating. This intense eating experience really helps toallow for each person to really contemplate both the food they areeating and how their day is going so far. Of course, following theperiod of silence, we were aloud to speak again and all 17 of us choseto sit and discuss the amazing weather and all that we had learnedfrom the earlier lecture. After our meal had completed we did asGinger asked and all politely went inside to hand wash our dishes. Itwas an interesting process. First, any extra food left on a platewould be placed in the "duck" bucket, which would be fed to localducks around the community in order to not waste the compost. Secondwe soaped the dishes and scrubbed them down. In the three consecutivesinks following the soapy one, there were different levels of rinsing.Obviously the first rinse got rather soapy, but as the lineprogressed by the end the dishes were clean and soap free, awaiting atowel and then a leisurely rest on the drying rack. Overall, we canprobably agree that the lunch experience we had today was one of manyfrom the trip that we will not forget.
-Liz and Anna
More Thailand Images
The King and Queen are revered in Thailand. This is the monument to them in Doi Sotep. There are many such monuments that we have seen.
The Golden Pagoda at Doi Sotep. That really is gold leaf. It is about 20 meters in diameter and about 30 meters tall. 
Preparing to meditate at the International Women's Partnership for Peace and Justice in Ban Mai.
And the fields surronding Ban Mai.Friday, January 6, 2012
Climbing Mountains and then Some
Following our usual breakfast of pasta, rice, fruit and toast we had a class session. We focused on our most impactful experience of the trip thus far and how it connects to the larger theme of feminist theology. We looked at the relationship between experience, theology and religion.
Then it was time to get back into the songtaews for a quick ride to the mall for lunch. Songtaew (meaning two seats in Thai) are red trucks that have been retrofitted to serve as taxis. In the back are two bench seats facing each other. We have been known to fit 14 people in the back. On average they take up to ten. Needless to say it was not only a snug fit, but a great bonding moment. Our most frequent driver is named Tchu (pronounced chew). He is a Star Trek fan and greets us with the "live long and prosper" Spock hand sign.
The mall is like a large super center with smaller stores and kiosks that sell everything from ice cream to shoes and knock off purses. To buy food at the food court each of us needed to purchase a ticket, similar to a temporary COW card, that was used instead of money at twenty different food vendors that lined the food court. Depending on the price, money would be taken off the initial deposit on your card. It seemed like a system designed for frequent diners. Linda reports the French fries were crispier and the gyoza was excellent. Sarah thought that the chicken and rice was tasty, but the highlight of the meal was chocolate cake. Everybody's meal seemed to reflect that it was a collective "junk food day." After a full week of eating only Thai food, girls enjoyed a break getting ice cream or a smoothie.
After lunch we headed for Doi Suthep, the main temple in the Chang-Mai area. We knew it was going to be an interesting drive when our guide, Ajan Gai, asked if there was anybody who was easily car sick, fortunately there were only two who were able to sit in the front seats. The road was steep and very twisty. At points we could look out of the window and see the street below us that we had just driven on. This also provided great views of Chang-Mai along the way. We finally arrived at the top only to be greeted by a fairly steep winding path lined on both sides with booths selling food, souvenirs, or items related to temple worship. The path led to a steep staircase of over 300 stairs. The staircase was guarded by two dragons with seven heads. The dragon was being eaten by a large fish and its body spanned the entire length of the staircase. Once at the top we entered the main temple courtyard. We were in awe of the rich colors, red, blue, green and the gold leaf that covered significant portions of the temple complex.
On each side of the main temple there were rows of large bells made from what appeared to be cast iron and ranged in size from one to three feet tall. They were ornate with floral details and images of animals such as dragons. Our students, and many young and young at heart, enjoyed ringing them and striking the gongs. We saw many monks in their orange robes, but failed to see any maechi (the women who serve in the temples). We also had a great view of the city and saw many Buddha images including a beautiful jade Buddha. In the center of the temple was a very large, gold spire. Around the inside of the temple area was an extensive mural illustrating the story of the Buddha.
After our temple visit we went to a jade factory. We were able to see a short film on the two different kinds of jade and the processing from rock into art. We also saw the carving room where the jade Buddha that made for the 50th anniversary of the king's reign, which now resides in the grand palace, was made. Many of us had not known before that jade comes in several different colors including white, lavender and black (that glows green when held up to a flashlight). Closing out our trip many of us snacked on fresh strawberries or corn, or sipped coffee from a regional grower.
As we reflect at the midpoint of our trip, not only have we grown together as a group sharing everything from moving moments to colds, but we have grown as individuals in many ways. It is clear that the diversity of the group has enhanced our experience and learning as each of the members bring our own lens to the trip. As we look forward we are thinking about the immersion in the Luisu village with both anticipation and hesitation. This may be the most challenging part of our trip, as well as the most rewarding. Our hope is that what we have done to this point and what we have done together will help us appreciate and grow from the experience with our hosts in the village. Rest well, we know we will.
Linda and Sarah
Then it was time to get back into the songtaews for a quick ride to the mall for lunch. Songtaew (meaning two seats in Thai) are red trucks that have been retrofitted to serve as taxis. In the back are two bench seats facing each other. We have been known to fit 14 people in the back. On average they take up to ten. Needless to say it was not only a snug fit, but a great bonding moment. Our most frequent driver is named Tchu (pronounced chew). He is a Star Trek fan and greets us with the "live long and prosper" Spock hand sign.
The mall is like a large super center with smaller stores and kiosks that sell everything from ice cream to shoes and knock off purses. To buy food at the food court each of us needed to purchase a ticket, similar to a temporary COW card, that was used instead of money at twenty different food vendors that lined the food court. Depending on the price, money would be taken off the initial deposit on your card. It seemed like a system designed for frequent diners. Linda reports the French fries were crispier and the gyoza was excellent. Sarah thought that the chicken and rice was tasty, but the highlight of the meal was chocolate cake. Everybody's meal seemed to reflect that it was a collective "junk food day." After a full week of eating only Thai food, girls enjoyed a break getting ice cream or a smoothie.
After lunch we headed for Doi Suthep, the main temple in the Chang-Mai area. We knew it was going to be an interesting drive when our guide, Ajan Gai, asked if there was anybody who was easily car sick, fortunately there were only two who were able to sit in the front seats. The road was steep and very twisty. At points we could look out of the window and see the street below us that we had just driven on. This also provided great views of Chang-Mai along the way. We finally arrived at the top only to be greeted by a fairly steep winding path lined on both sides with booths selling food, souvenirs, or items related to temple worship. The path led to a steep staircase of over 300 stairs. The staircase was guarded by two dragons with seven heads. The dragon was being eaten by a large fish and its body spanned the entire length of the staircase. Once at the top we entered the main temple courtyard. We were in awe of the rich colors, red, blue, green and the gold leaf that covered significant portions of the temple complex.
On each side of the main temple there were rows of large bells made from what appeared to be cast iron and ranged in size from one to three feet tall. They were ornate with floral details and images of animals such as dragons. Our students, and many young and young at heart, enjoyed ringing them and striking the gongs. We saw many monks in their orange robes, but failed to see any maechi (the women who serve in the temples). We also had a great view of the city and saw many Buddha images including a beautiful jade Buddha. In the center of the temple was a very large, gold spire. Around the inside of the temple area was an extensive mural illustrating the story of the Buddha.
After our temple visit we went to a jade factory. We were able to see a short film on the two different kinds of jade and the processing from rock into art. We also saw the carving room where the jade Buddha that made for the 50th anniversary of the king's reign, which now resides in the grand palace, was made. Many of us had not known before that jade comes in several different colors including white, lavender and black (that glows green when held up to a flashlight). Closing out our trip many of us snacked on fresh strawberries or corn, or sipped coffee from a regional grower.
As we reflect at the midpoint of our trip, not only have we grown together as a group sharing everything from moving moments to colds, but we have grown as individuals in many ways. It is clear that the diversity of the group has enhanced our experience and learning as each of the members bring our own lens to the trip. As we look forward we are thinking about the immersion in the Luisu village with both anticipation and hesitation. This may be the most challenging part of our trip, as well as the most rewarding. Our hope is that what we have done to this point and what we have done together will help us appreciate and grow from the experience with our hosts in the village. Rest well, we know we will.
Linda and Sarah
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